Sunday, 17 June
We are anchored NORTH of Cape Caution! This turned out to be a more successful day than we dared hope for. Neither of us slept well during the night; MJ because she was wondering how we would manage to extricate Sirius from a wind-bound dock with a massive CQR anchor looming over our stern, and me listening to the wind and wondering if the strong winds forecast for late afternoon would come early.
Based on the weather forecast when we retired, we hoped to work a bit farther west to a good staging area for an assault on the cape the next day. We would work as far west as the weather allowed.
We backed out at 0545 using a technique I learned from Capt. Denny Thompson. (You twin screw, bow and stern thruster types can skip this next part.) We fendered up the bow, and then lead the bow-line aft to act as a spring line. I powered against it with the helm turned towards the dock. This kicked stern out against the wind. When Sirius was about 45 degrees to the dock, I went astern and MJ retrieved the bow spring line. I love it when a plan comes together.
The local conditions were reasonable for traveling, so we pushed on to our first bail-out point behind the peninsula just east of Port Hardy. The winds were holding steady, NW 15 – 20, so we pushed on towards the second bail-out point in the Walker Island Group out in the strait to the NW of Port Hardy. As we approached them, the 1030 forecast revised the wind strengths for the western Queen Charlotte Strait and the Queen Charlotte Sound from gales down to 15 – 20 knots. We decided to go for it!
 |
I shaped a course for the cape, and then rechecked the known good anchorages north of Cape Caution. We targeted Millbrook Cove in Smith Inlet. About 1130 the winds veered enough that we could sail close hauled along a course 15 degrees off the rhumb line. Two-meter swells were running in from open waters (West Sea Otter buoy was reporting 2.2 meter seas). However sailing close hauled at a good angle to them gave a surprisingly good ride. MJ spotted whale spouts in the distance shortly after we made sail. We saw several animals over the next 30 minutes.
We sailed close-hauled until we closed the mainland shore about 8 miles from the cape. 90 minutes of motor-sailing brought us abeam the cape. Turning north to round the cape freed the wind enough that we could make sail again, and we sailed up to the entrance buoy for Millbrook cove.
A fishing tug steamed toward the cove just as we finished flaking the main. We shamelessly followed him in, glad to have a guide for our transit through this rather tight, rocky entrance. We had the hook down at 1745 hrs – a 12 hour day, with 62 miles made good, and the wind on the nose all but the last 10 miles of it. We’re going to sleep well tonight!
MJ's Musings:
HEEL
A sign you’ve run out of bread.
GOING TO WEATHER
What your face is going to do no matter how much sun screen you use.
(Dearheart Durkee says “What wrinkles?”)
Monday, 18 June
We were a 6-knot trawler today. In flat water, Sirius steams at 6 knots at 2100 rpm and burns about 0.5 gallon/hour. The traffic about us as we entered Fitz Hugh Sound – cruise ships, tugs towing barges, fishing tugs, and yachts – made it clear that we are now on the main drag. Traffic thinned out later in the day, and the sky cleared as well, making for a lovely, relaxing day.
Just before the 1030 forecast was due, Prince Rupert Coast Guard radio broadcast an alert regarding a strong low approaching the Queen Charlotte Islands that would bring gale force SE winds to northern waters over night. The sky at the time gave no indication of this future trouble. We felt as though we were waiting “for the other shoe to drop” as we motored along enjoying the warmth of the sun. We did, however review possible anchorages for good protection from the south.
Sea Otter Cove, on the east shore of Hunter Island, is a lovely, three-armed inlet. We opted for the south arm, as it seemed to offer the best protection from the southern quadrant. The hook went down in 60 feet, and the swinging room might allow for one more boat. The resident eagles are calling to one another as we relax in the cockpit, knitting and reading. A pair of cranes landed, with a great deal of guttural squawking, to feed on a drying shoal along the shore. Life is good.
By dinnertime, the barometer was falling; a layer of cirro-stratus clouds had formed and thickened considerably. Things are likely to go bump in the night.
MJ's Musings:
LOW PRESSURE
One ring showing on the pressure cooker
HIGH PRESSURE
Two rings showing
MILLIBARS
Sure wish I could get the recipe for those milli bars. Everyone up here is talking about them.
Would someone please let Larry Hettick know how much I appreciate the beautiful leather covering he lashed to the wheel. I appreciate it every time I have the watch.
The Skippers Musings on Weather and Travel within Gwaii Haanas (written 19 June)
We’re having another cup while listening to the sea buoy and light house reports – and listening to the gentle patter of rain on the coach roof. Several stations in this part of the coast are reporting SE winds above 25 knots due to the deep low now a bit west of the Queen Charlotte Islands.
Looking back, since our departure nearly two weeks ago, the weather has been dominated by three deep lows that tracked into coastal waters bring gale force winds to some portions of this coast. This is more like a late winter weather pattern than a Spring/Summer one. Evidently the pacific high has not yet developed enough to deflect these lows up into the Gulf of Alaska.
This weather pattern can have a major impact on planning for a visit to the “Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site”. Let me explain:
Anyone who wants to go ashore within Gwaii Haanas must have a permit to do so with dates certain for entry and exit. And they must attend an orientation session held at the Haida Heritage Center near Skidegate. Hence, they must sail into Skidegatge Inlet at least a day or so before the entry date on their permit.
The number of these permits is quite restricted to limit impact on this still pristine area (this is a good thing). However, the majority of these permits are allocated to commercial tour groups – primarily kayak tours. Hence, the number available for visiting boaters is limited (this is a bad thing). It is possible to make a reservation, but having done so, you really don’t want to arrive late. Our reservation starts on July 1st.
This brings us back to weather. Getting to the Skidegate Inlet is at least a 65 mile sail across the north Hecate Strait (with the shortest distance being from the north end of Banks Island). This waterway is relatively shallow, under 10 fathoms on the western half. It has a well earned reputation for nasty, nasty seas whenever a strong southerly blows up the strait. So, you want a nice, wide weather window for this crossing.
These major frontal systems shut down a Hecata Strait
crossing, for us at least, for several days. So, we need to have several
weather days tucked into our schedule as we approach Banks Island.
Bottom line – time to put on the foulies and make more progress to the north
while we are in the relatively protected waters of the inside passage. It
may be uncomfortable, but it will be safe, and we can’t afford to squander a
weather day.
Tuesday, 19 June
We did linger over a second cup before suiting up. Sea Otter Cove proved to be both a lovely and very well protected anchorage. We had a peaceful night. The crab trap provided one keeper, and then we headed out into the Fisher Channel towards Lama Passage and Shearwater Marine Resort.
 |
| Shearwater Marina installed this snag in hopes that it would attract eagles. Note the two eagles. |
Shearwater is likely the last taste of ‘civilization’ for us before Queen Charlotte City. We fueled up (36 liters), but the dock staff advised against using the water here for our tanks. Later, MJ chatted up a water treatment technician who is working on an experimental water purification system using ozone. He characterized the local water as “acidic tea”, and confirmed that it may contain sufficient organisms that boiling is required. Shearwater Resort & Marina does filter the municipal water to improve color and taste, but the boil before consuming warning remains in effect. The clerk in the store suggested using Bella Bell just across the channel; they do have good water.
Overall, the facilities here – store, laundry, showers, marine supplies, hotel & restaurant -- are quite nice. They even have wireless internet – sort of, just kidding! The signal around the docks is great. But as we learned from the water treatment guy, the uplink to the satellite is broken, and the repair parts won’t be here for days. Oh well, I’ll try to find a landline somewhere.
MJ's Musings:
SOG
Calculated by how long it takes, once we hit the marina, to
fuel and water the boat, shop, shower, find the wine store, and do laundry.
Wednesday, 20 June
Foulies are our friends. It rained through the night and throughout most of the day today. We began the day with a stop in Bella Bella to top off our water tank. Plus, as MJ learned from the driver of the water taxis between Shearwater and Bella Bella, many of the homes and businesses in Bella Bella have wireless internet access. We hoped that we might buy some time on one of them.
As it turns out, there is no public Internet access in Bella Bella. However, we did encounter several very friendly and helpful folks who eventually steered us to the college. School is out of session, but the staff there were so kind as to fire up an email program on a windows machine and offer us the use of it. Fortunately, it was willing to recognize my flash drive, so I was able to upload the log and send it to our editor and family. We insisted on making a donation to the student cookie fund.
The band grocery store in Bella Bella is also great. We added more fresh produce to our larder. Then, we headed off again. We motor-sailed through Seaforth Channel with ¼ mile visibility, maintaining a radar watch. Given the poor visibility, we opted for the more open route that took us out into Millbank Sound. There were 1.5 meter swells running in from the SW, and not quite enough wind to set sail and stabilize the boat. Four miles on, we were into the mouth of Finlayson Channel and the seas flattened out.
We were able to get some drive off the jib as we motored up the channel towards Klemtu. Mary Cove is our home for the night. This enchanting little cove is just across the channel from Klemtu. But instead of all the hustle and bustle of the Klemtu anchorage, we have the soothing rush of waterfalls. As we prepared to anchor, we saw eagles carrying large sticks, and watched them enhance their nest. The hook is well set in 65 feet; there is enough swinging room; we’re set for the night.
MJ's Musings:
I hate standing watch in the rain. I bought off my skipper with a donut.
Thursday, 21 June
Alston Cove was a most welcome sight after a tedious, rainy day. We were even treated to some prolonged sun breaks once the hook was down. Alston Cove, along the east shore of Laredo Inlet, is the first well-protected anchorage along this inlet. The country here in the “Outside Passage” is quite grand and scenic – particularly when the clouds lift enough to see the snow capped peaks to the east.
Our route today took us close by Klemtu. Yesterday, MJ had spotted a cell tower with the binoc’s before we turned into Mary Cove. After a call home, we headed on north up the Finlayson Channel to Meyers Passage which is the smooth water route over to Laredo Sound. The narrows in Meyers Passage needs to be treated with respect, as it is narrow, rocky, and has a least depth of about one fathom at a zero tide.
The tidal currents through this network of sounds and inlets can be quite a puzzlement. We had a nice ebb current helping us on our way down the north leg of Meyers Passage. We waited a few minutes at the west end of the narrows for the slack water at turn-to-flood. Once through the narrows, the ebb was with us again all the way out into Laredo Sound! Go figure.
We are now in count-down mode for the crossing to Skidegate Inlet. Our plans are to anchor a bit south of Banks Island tomorrow night, perhaps in Barnard Harbor on Princess Royal Island, or the Estavan Island Group. Then, be in Larsen Harbor up at the north end of Banks Island two nights later. We’ll cross the Hecate Strait with the first weather window.
A prolonged sun break after dinner found us relaxing in the cockpit. Well sort of. MJ was knitting while I did a postmortem on the wheel drive mechanism for the NEW autopilot. It worked wonderfully well for the first 300 miles or so. Then, holding course in the 2 meter waves off Cape Caution seemed to take it from youthful vigor to geriatric care. It functioned marginally well for the next couple of days, and then failed entirely. I was able to determine, to my satisfaction at least, that the planetary gear reduction system between the electric motor and the cogged wheel that actually drives the wheel has failed. No hope for a fix. New parts required. Must contact Raymarine Technical Service once we are in Queen Charlotte City.
MJ's Musings:
It’s raining again. It’s my watch. I’m out of doughnuts. Maybe pancakes will work.
Friday, 22 June
We were a sailboat today – initially out of necessity, and then for the pure joy of it. Three hours into our morning run up the Laredo Channel, we noted that the engine temperature was rising. MJ shut down before the temperature alarm sounded, and then deployed the jib. She was able to use the gentle southerly then making up to maintain steerageway, gibing across the Channel a couple of times, while I dove into the problem.
The exhaust water on a J/32 ejects down about a foot in front of the transom. The exhaust stream in not visible from the cockpit. So I “rounded up the usual suspects”. Raw water strainer clear – check; no blockage below the seacock – check; raw water pump impellor in good health – check; no blockage in the heat exchanger – check. Must be the thermostat. I removed the thermostat and the engine ran cool, but well. (Later, I found the old thermostat in the spares bin; tested it in a pan of water on the stove, and installed it.)
By the time I finished the engine work, the wind had freshened from the starboard quarter. So we gave the Yanmar a rest and set the chute. We crossed the Caamano Sound under chute before the wind went light and we went back to power.
 |
| Luxury floating fishing lodge in Barnard Harbour. |
Our anchorage for the night is Cameron Cove off Barnard Harbor on Princess Royal Island. We chose this both because it is another in the seemingly endless string of beautiful, well protected coves, but also because MJ noted in one of our cruising guides that there are three fly-in luxury fishing lodges moored in the harbor. She reasoned that at least one of them would let a retirement-aged couple use their satellite phone to update their float plan. And, yes they did.
Listening to the forecast after dinner, we realized that a weather window for crossing the Hecate Strait was now open. Saturday would have light southlies, backing to light northerlies over night. Saturday would be a fine day to cross, as would Sunday. But what about Monday? Who knows? So, we decided to leave early and try for Larsen Harbor tomorrow (a more than 65 mile day) and cross on Sunday instead of Monday. The float plan we phoned in only four hours ago was already out of date.
Saturday, 23 June
Squally Channel was a pussy cat this morning; Otter Channel and the Nepean Sound were sound asleep; and the Principe Channel – our timing could hardly have been better. The flood carried us up to the mid-point, and then the ebb carried us out the far end. We did motor-sail a bit in Principie Channel, but the southerlies were generally very light. The sun lifted our spirits as we scanned the rugged shoreline in hopes of spotting a bear.
Once around the north end of Banks Island, we reviewed our sources of “local knowledge” in preparation for finding our way into Larsen Harbor.
 |
| Larsen Harbour at the north end of Banks Island. This was our jumping off point for Haida Gwaii. |
It is the sort of place that I would never consider entering without local knowledge. Once into the anchorage we rejoiced in our surroundings. It has a rugged, windswept, end of the earth sort of air about it. As we swing gently to anchor, we can look out between two rocky islets into the open waters of the Hecate Strait. Loons, eagles and other sea birds are our only company.
Relaxing in the cockpit, soaking up the sunshine and the feel of this place, we looked back on the more than 600 miles we traveled to achieve this moment. We feel very fortunate to have achieved this goal of exploring the Outside Passage. More awaits us. Below decks, we used the warm breeze to get the boat thoroughly dried out. Then we turned to preparations for an early departure into Hecate Strait.
Sunday, 24 June
We watched the sun rise into a crystal clear sky as we motored out of Larsen Harbor (and yes that is shortly after 5:00 O’clock at this latitude). The Hecate Strait was lightly rippled by a NW breeze. Shortly after rounding the end of Banks Island we turned to the rhumb line for the Lawn Point range – 260 degrees true – and made sail.
The morning was so clear that we could see 65 miles to capped peaks on southern Morseby Island. They made a great steering mark. Keeping them just forward of the port gate kept us on course. The first 30 miles we sailed close-hauled right down the rhumb line. Yes the plan was coming together.
The 1030 WX synopsis talked about the next frontal system making its march into coastal waters. By Monday afternoon, some portions of these northern coastal waters will have strong to gale force SE winds. Just the thing a sailor does not want here in the shallow waters of the north Hecate Strait. By early afternoon the first cirro-stratus clouds from this new front were forming.
Just beyond the halfway point, the winds backed and went light. They freshened enough, from the SE, to sail the last 5 miles down the channel to the Sandspit Marina. We are tired after two 12 hour days underway, but elated to be here. A few days of shore-based activities should have us refreshed and ready to sail down into the park.
MJ's Musings
Gail Phorswynds
We though we might rendezvous with her at Larsen Harbor – our jumping off point. After exchanging some notes with her, we found she was engaged elsewhere – so we sent without her.
