Tuesday, 10 July

Summer has finally come to the northland!  The WX synopsis began to talk of the long awaited ridge of high pressure forming west of Vancouver Island during our last few days in Gwaii Haanas.  The ridge did, indeed, bring us some lovely afternoons there with warm sun, as well as a fine day for re-crossing Hecate Strait.  Now, we would be too warm were it not for the gentle breeze blowing through our anchorage. 

We’re anchored at the far end of Racey Inlet on the west shore of Princess Royal Island (just east of the Campania Sound).  A short day, yes, but very welcome after yesterday’s long crossing of the Hecate Strait.  It should position us well to catch the slack at Meyers Narrows tomorrow afternoon en route to Klemtu. 

Wednesday, 11 July

"Big House" at Klemtu

We made it to Klemtu just in time to fuel and water the boat; and yes we did have a safe margin of both.  It has been 14 days and 357 miles from Sandspit. – and seemingly a world ago.  A fine NW breeze earlier in the day gave us a fast spinnaker run down the last half of the Laredo Channel.  This allowed us to transit the Meyers Narrows just after high slack, and subsequently make it to Klemtu before 1700.

We’re anchored for the night in Mary Cove just across the Finlayson Channel from Klemtu.  We’ll swing through there on the way south tomorrow to make a couple of cell-phone calls. 

It was HOT today, and we both used our new water supply generously for a bath before turning in. 

 MJ's Musings

We’re safely back on the BC Coast.  Unfortunately, we are a couple of days early, and Klemtu didn’t have time to arrange the Brass Band.

Thursday, 12 July

This was an up and down sort of day.  Bright blue sky and a gentle breeze in the morning; overcast and blowing hard by midday; a return of blue skies and gentle winds as we arrived at Shearwater. 

We dined out tonight!  Then, we retired to the Laundromat, which is also the wireless hot spot.  Tomorrow hot showers for the crew and a well-deserved scrub down for Sirius.

Friday, 13 July

The weather charts I downloaded last night convinced me that summer is over – at least for a while.  Lots of low’s scattered along the coast and out into the Pacific.  Sure enough, we awoke to light rain.  Oh well, a good morning to give Sirius her long awaited bath.  Then it’s showers for the crew before we head out. 

Last night, MJ and I spread out the planning charts.  The general outlines of a plan came together.  We hope to get a window of stable weather that will allow us to cross the Queen Charlotte Strait to the northwest tip of Vancouver Island, and make landfall in Sea Otter Cove just south of Cape Scott.  The bail out plan is to make for Bull Harbor on Hope Island (coming in over the Nahwitti Bar if conditions permit).

We swung by Bella Bella to add a bit more to our larder before heading south.  The docks were full, but MJ hopped off at the seaplane dock and I picked her up a bit later.  We motored-sailed to Codville Lagoon for the night.  There are three other yachts (all trawlers) here as well.  But then, this is peak season and a popular Marine Park.  So, I suppose we can get used to sharing.

MJ's Musings

Durkee says “When we get close to Bull Harbor, we should watch for the Nahwitti Bar “.  Hope they serve Margarita’s there.  

Saturday, 14 July

We were on the motor all day with a gradually lifting overcast that made for a muggy day.  Joe’s Bay in Fish Egg Inlet was a welcome change.  There’s a cool, gentle breeze making its way into the anchorage.  We can hear the ‘falls’ running as Elizabeth Lagoon empties over a drying shoal just behind the wooded islet astern of us; bergy-bits of foam are drifting along both shores. 

Looking back on the day, the highlight was watching Humpback Whales breeching in the entrance to Fish Egg Inlet.  It’s my turn in the galley and the RBO is getting hungry, so time to get with it!

Sunday, 15 July

We slept in, lulled by the sound of a steady rain drumming on the coachroof.  Reading and knitting was the order of the day ‘til noon.  After lunch the sun broke through, and we decided to go explore Elizabeth Lagoon.  We challenged the rapids at a +12 foot tide, two hours before high tide and were just able to paddle our way into the lagoon. 

The lagoon seems to have never known human impact.  The water was dark with tannin, so dark that it was hard to see rocks lurking near the surface. 

After an hour of exploring, we noticed that blocks of foam were now flowing into the lagoon!  Our quick return to the entrance was not quite timely enough.  The current was too much for us, and increasing rapidly.  So, we explored and relaxed for a couple more hours until slack water at the entrance.   After dinner we paddled up to the entrance again to watch the birth of the bergy-bits of foam that were flowing down into the anchorage.  The entrance to the lagoon was now a five-foot cataract.

Monday, 16 July

Another easy day—25 miles, but only sailed the last five.  A humpback whale treated us to a grand display as we crossed the mouth of Rivers Inlet:  breaching several times, and then long sequences of tail slapping.  We’re back in Millbrook Cove, preparing to round Cape Scott tomorrow.   I broke out the final pack of charts – Cape Scott to Barkley Sound.  It does feel as though we are sliding towards home, but we have a lot of wonderful new country to explore first.

Tuesday, 17 July

We are safely around Cape Scott.  The morning was filled with promise – a high, thin overcast with hints of blue.  However, as we neared Cape Scott, a heavy fog settled around us.  We went on radar watch, thinking that our only views of this great cape would be on the radar screen.  The fog lifted slightly as we came abeam of the cape.  We could make out Cox Island to the west and the low rocky foreshore of Cape Scott to the east.  The fog finally burned off as we were lining up with the east entrance to Sea Otter Cove. 

Sea Otter Cove does have an appealing wildness about it, but I would not want to enter or leave at less than a +4 foot tide.  We’re hoping for a sunny morning that will invite us into the kayak for some exploring.  Then, we plan to make for Winter Harbor. 

Wednesday, 18 July

We awoke to a lovely, sunny morning with a gentle NW breeze.  The forecast spoke of trouble off the Oregon coast headed our way.  So, we decided to forgo the kayak outing and make for Winter Harbour before the weather deteriorated.  MJ spotted a lone wolf on the shore of Helen Island as we were cautiously working our way out of Sea Otter Cove.

Looking back up the coast, we saw Cape Scott was still fog bound while we were sailing under a clear sky.  The following breeze made for a fine sail down to Quatsino Sound.  We rounded Kains Island light under sail, and were able to carry sail for another mile or so up Forward Inlet towards Winter Harbor.  Hot showers and a stroll along the boardwalk capped our day. 

MJ's Musings

Our most asked question:  “Why would you name your boat after a radio station?”

Thursday, 19 July

Light steady rain this morning, and the likelihood that we will need to wait out another blow before attempting to round the Brooks Peninsula.  We decided to head for Klaskish Basin at the NE apex of the Brooks Peninsula.  It’s descriptions promised a lovely spot to spend time. 

The anchorage far exceeded expectations.  The narrow, winding entrance is right out of a Raiders of the Lost Ark movie; the basin nestles between steeply rising peaks with a small meadow at the very head.  Now, if will just clear bit more, we’ll head off exploring by kayak.

Friday, 20 July

Steady, heavy rain all night.  Our rain gauge is a bucket left out in the cockpit – it was nearly full by noon!  The WX includes a sorry tale of developing SE winds, possibly rising to gale force tomorrow late.   Not the sort of weather pattern for rounding Cape Cook at the tip of the Brooks Peninsula.  There can’t be a better place to ride out a blow than here in Klaskish Basin – so we’re staying put.   (P.S.  MJ gave me a good drubb’n at dominos and is relishing the prospects of another match.)

Saturday, 21 July

Rain!  It has rained steadily for three days and nights.  Now the winds and seas off the north coast of Vancouver Island are forecast to go to 40 knots and 3 meters respectively tonight.  The latest (and deepest) low should track into the Queen Charlotte Sound by tomorrow morning – so there is hope.  Perhaps we can travel again tomorrow afternoon, or Monday morning.  For now, the order of the day is drying out the boat and gear, attacking mold and mildew (due to condensation).

Sunday, 22 July

This was a hard, hard night.  Shortly before midnight we were startled awake as Sirius rolled to the impact of katabatic gusts (williwaw’s) tumbling down the steep slopes around us.  We stood anchor watch until 0530 – monitoring our swing on the chart plotter looking for anchor drag; refreshing the nip on the hour; trying to monitor the WX broadcasts and make sense out of it all.

The strongest gusts were above 50 knots, with 30 – 40 common.  We were riding to a pair of anchors laid out along the long axis of the basin.  The primary strain came on our Bulwagga, which yielded about 50 feet of ground through the night, but kept us in safe water.  The chart plotter recorded that we traveled 4.5 nm while swinging wildly to these gusts. 

The barometer also went on a wild ride.  Evidently, the 996 mb low tracked close along the shore and retained its strength.  Our barometer reported a 6 mb pressure rise during the six hours we stood anchor watch.  It was up another 7 mb by 1030 when we listened to the new forecast.  At that time, it was blowing 40 knots up at Cape Scott, while our anchorage had regained is calm demeanor.  The outlook for tomorrow does seem promising, and the rain has stopped – at least for the present.   We may finally get around this last great cape.

MJ's Musings

Gail Phorswynds

You’ll recall we left without her from Larsen Harbor.  Well – she caught up with us.  She was pissed, and raged for hours. 

Monday, 23 July

This was the day we waited for -- the day we earned.  The seas out in Brooks Bay had laid well down from the day before. A gentle SW breeze was blowing, and the sky quickly cleared above us, while retaining a photogenic cloud cap atop many of the peaks of the Brooks Peninsula. Rounding close by Solander Island just off Cape Cook, we watched the sea lions hauled out there.  They climbed up impossibly steep slopes in search of just the right sunning spot.

Once around Brooks Peninsula, we beam reached across Checleset Bay just to seaward of the nearly uncountably many rocks, reefs and islets of the Barrier Islands.   Along much of this coast, the surf breaking upon rocks and shoals is the only marker to guide a mariner.  The bright afternoon sun really lit up the breaking surf of those ‘markers’ today.  By mid afternoon, we struck sail and worked our way into Kyuquot. 

This village is struggling -- the fuel dock has closed;  there are no public showers; the restaurant is only open the one night of the week that the coastal supply ship, Uchuck III is docked.  The commercial fishing fleet is gone, and sport fishing is not yet enough to support the economy. 

Tuesday, 24 July

We motored southeast through Clear Passage (inside the Barrier Island chain) while waiting for the

Friendly Cove, with church in the background.

 NW wind to build and the sky to clear.  They both did so as we approached the entrance to Esperanza Inlet.  The following wind carried us all the way to Tahsis Narrows.  These inlets are particularly scenic on a warm sunny day such as we enjoyed today.  MJ & I relaxed and let the Yanmar do it’s job during the run down Tahsis Inlet into Cook Channel were we made sail again, and sailed into Nootka Sound.  In effect, we took the flat-water, scenic route around the inside of Nootka Island rather than sail along its seaward side. 

 

Totems are used throughout the west coast. In  Friendly Cove they are seen behind the altar of the church.

We both commented on the increased boating traffic now that we are farther down the coast.  Most of it is sport-fishing boats, and the many fine looking Lodges for sport fishermen along these shores is one of the most notable changes since I was here last in 1995.  We also saw half a dozen sailboats today.  The downside of all these cruising boats became apparent when we found our first choice for an anchorage stuffed full.  We moved on a mile or so to Friendly Cove and became the #4 sailboat riding at anchor.

The forecast this evening talked about the next frontal system tracking into BC coastal waters.  Only now, we are far enough south, that this low will be someone else’s problem!  The waters we intend to travel tomorrow should still have light to moderate NW winds. 

Monument to Vancouver and Quadra in Notka Sound.

Wednesday, 25 July

A fine day for sailing.  We saw 6 sail as we beam reached down to Estevan Point.   The light there is an imposing monument, and architecturally pleasing as well.  MJ & I started the day with a stroll around the grounds of Yuquot, the Mowachaht village site at Friendly Cove.   The sense of history surround this place rests easily upon it these days. 

Once around Estevan Point, the wind freshened and we had a fast run into Sydney Inlet just south of Hot Springs Cove, where we anchored in Coyote Cove (or Bottleneck Cove as the locals call it).  Approaching Hot Springs Cove, MJ spotted the first planeload and boatload of tourista’s heading for a soak – and we knew that we were well and truly back at the edge of civilization. 

Thursday, 26 July

We found a scrap of dock space here in Tofino – rafted up actually.  Something has changed – and it is us.  Tofino used to be an exotic village far up the remote West Coast of Vancouver Island.  Now it feels as though we have sailed into our backyard.  The congestion along the waterfront, and the hustle and bustle along the streets is an unwelcome change from the solitude and grandeur of the remote areas we’ve recently cruised. 

We’re off in pursuit of showers, laundry and an internet café.

Later:  Sirius is fueled & watered; her crew are clean and well fed (we highly recommend the Rain Coast Café).  Tomorrow we head on down the coast to Barkley Sound and the Broken Island Group.

Friday, 27 July

We are nestled in for the night in a cove on the SE corner of Nettle Island in the Broken Island Group of Barkley Sound.  It was a better day than forecast – we had enough wind to sail well until into the shelter of the Broken Island Group, and the “chance” of fog and rain showers did not materialize.  The wind was on the nose all the way, but it was an easy sail.

Tomorrow will be a short day over to Bamfield.  There, we will relax, rest up and prepared for a long day in the Straits of Juan de Fuca.  We’re hoping that the next low will clear out in time that we don’t have to beat all the way down the Strait of Juan de Fuca!

Saturday, 28 July

This was an easy day – by plan since tomorrow with be a long travel day..  The RBO was served breakfast in bed (hot cakes, bacon and stout coffee).  Then we motored over to Bamfield in a light SE breeze and a very light drizzle.  After lunch at the dock, we walked up to the General Store for one of their great ice cream cones.  We finished our walk at a couple of the arts & crafts shops. 

The revised forecast says that we will finally be rid of these SE winds.  The westerlies in the Straits of Juan de Fuca should push us a long way towards home before night fall tomorrow.

Sunday, 29 July

Over coffee at 0430 we heard that gale force winds were now forecast for the Strait of Juan de Fuca.  NOAA and Environment Canada had different opinions about when and how strong, but did agreed on strong westerlies today with more moderate winds tomorrow morning.  We opted for plan B – make for Neah Bay, and plan an early transit of the Strait the next day. 

The winds were still light and from the SE as we approached the entrance to the strait.  It seemed that the development of strong westerlies in the strait was going to be delayed; perhaps maximum wind strength would be down as well.  So, we decided to press on towards Becher Bay between Sooke and Victoria.  The bailout plan would be to shelter behind Pillar Point on the Washington shore if need be.

The westerlies finally made up enough for good sailing about 1400, and did not go above 20 knots until we were approaching Becher Bay at 1800.   It is now blowing 25+ out in the strait, and the shelter here in the NW corner of Becher Bay is reasonably good.  We have a good hook; are rocking gently to the small wind-waves, and are comfortably settled in for the night. 

The lights of Port Angeles shine brightly off our port quarter this last night at anchor.  They remind us of home.  MJ & I are becoming more and more accustomed to the idea of returning to our previous lives. We’re hoping to make the 23 mile run to the Dungeness Light before the winds get really strong tomorrow.  

Monday, 30 July

It was a pretty day out on the strait today.  The forecast strong westerlies were slow to make up and we had 2.5 knots of ebb on the nose, so we motor-sailed to the Dungeness Spit.  We used the leisurely sail in to the Sequim Bay entrance buoy to do miscellaneous boat chores.  It did feel good to ease Sirius back into her slip after nearly two months and more than 1600 miles of great cruising. 

Favorite Anchorages:

Klaskish Basin, Brooks Bay – very scenic, intriguing entrance, but beware of katabatic winds.

Larsen Harbor; north end of Banks Island – rugged, windblown, end-of-the-earth feel

Thurston Harbour;  Talunkwan Island (Haida Gwaii)  (saw raccoons along the shore)

Crescent Inlet; South Moresby Island – lovely meadow at its head  (saw four black bears in the meadow)

Ikeda Cove; South Moresby Island (very scenic; our jumping off point to return to BC coast)

Sea Otter Cove; east shore of Hunter Island – intimate cove with good protection.