The Haida lived throughout the Queen Charlotte Islands for thousands of years before there ever was a Queen Charlotte. While growing up, I was aware that the Haida had developed carving arts – such as totem poles and masks to perhaps the highest state to be found along the NW coast. Similarly, they had refined the cedar canoe into a remarkable voyaging vessel and were master mariners. It was probably in 1981 that the seed for our cruise was planted. That was when UNESCO recognized the old Haida village on Anthony Island (now known again by its Haida name SGang Gwaay) as a “World Heritage Site”. But first there was a career in the Midwest to finish; a boat to buy; and a sailing partnership to develop sufficiently that such a trip could be possible.
MJ and I have increasingly enjoyed getting off the well-traveled path. As a steady diet, we enjoy more the solitude of a quite anchorage to the amenities of a popular marina. From our reading, we knew that Haida Gwaii would offer such anchorages in abundance, along with generally good winds for sailing, frequent encounters with whales, and great birding. It was clear from even a cursory glance at a chart, that it would require a significant commitment of time and effort to get to Haida Gwaii. The establishment of the “National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site” had stopped the logging and saved most of the old growth forest on the southern third of the islands. Together, these would make for a nearly “wilderness cruising” experience. We decided to go, and do so while some of the poles at old village sites were still standing.
We are sharing our logs, impressions of people and places, and observations about trip planning in hopes that they will be useful to others who might want to cruise among these remarkable islands.
